Kennedy Welcomes ZENITH

Universally respected for their technical know-how, Zenith has been re-energised in recent years with a succession of fresh releases

Having an illustrious heritage can prove a double-edged sword for a watch brand.  A long and rich backstory may bestow an enviable sense of pedigree and consumer trust, but you don’t want to spend so much time looking backwards that you lose your contemporary edge. That’s the balancing act that Zenith have been forced to confront.

This, after all, is a brand with serious heritage. In 1865, the brand was established in Le Locle, Switzerland, by founder Georges Favre-Jacot. He quickly set about establishing the very first manufacture in the modern sense of the term, in that Zenith didn’t rely on third-party suppliers, producing all its movements and watch parts under one roof.

Favre-Jacot was, in fact, ahead of his time in many respects. He saw the potential market for pilot’s watches way before anyone else and, in 1888, registered the trademark for “pilote” (in French) and later the English word “pilot”.  When Louis Blériot became the first person to fly across the English Channel in 1909, he subsequently did so with a Zenith on his wrist. To this day, Zenith remain the only watch brand that can have the word “pilot” emblazoned on its dials.

But it wasn’t just pilot’s watches that Zenith pioneered. In 1969, the brand demonstrated their technical prowess by unveiling the El Primero calibre, the very first automatic chronograph movement. Immediately hailed for its horological innovation, the El Primero is still regarded as one of the best and most accurate chronograph movements ever made – Rolex even used it in their Daytona from 1988 to 2000. 

Admirably, despite this heritage, Zenith is a brand committed to looking forward and much of that stems from CEO Julian Tornaré who took over six years ago. “When I came on board, some people called Zenith the sleeping beauty,” Tornaré told Kennedy at Watches and Wonders. “And I kind of agreed with them. For a while the brand was a little too turned to the past and became a little bit dusty.

“My job was to say, ‘OK, let’s build on our heritage and continue to be a serious manufacture, but let’s also have fun and live in the 21^st century.”

Zenith’s success in this quest is clear by the fact that, under Tornare’s watch, the brand has broadened its appeal to a younger demographic. “We rejuvenated our client average age by nine years from 45 years when I took over, to about 36 today,” the CEO says.

This forward-thinking mindset is evident in Zenith’s ambassadorial partnerships than include AFL legend Buddy Franklin, the modern artist Felipe Pantone and superstar DJ Carl Cox. But it’s most visible in their product range that continues to channel the brand’s watchmaking nous in a progressive direction. Zenith may enjoy a storied past, but it’s a brand determined to stay focused on the future.

ZENITH Chronomaster

The Chronomaster was created in 1995 as a top-of-the-range home for Zenith’s El Primero movement. But a sportier and modernised version released in 2021 has since proved a massive hit.  The Chronomaster line is visually distinct due to its signature tricolour registers in blue, silver and grey.  Throw in a scratch-resistant ceramic bezel and the El Primero 3600 calibre within, and it all adds up to an extremely compelling package.

Today, it’s available in a variety of guises. The Chronomaster Sport is a fresh, modern chronograph, while the Chronomaster Original channels the retro vibes of the first Zenith El Primero from 1968.  Meanwhile the Zenith Chronomaster Open pieces come with open-heart dials to reveal the balance wheel and escapement. 

ZENITH Pilot

Most pilot’s watches either go down the retro path or tap into a militaristic ethos. Zenith’s new pilot’s watches take a fresher approach. Released at Watches and Wonders this year, the Zenith Pilot Automatic is a sleek, 40mm watch with a corrugated black dial which, instead of opting for the antique font of many pilot watches, keeps things modern with applied markers filled with white Superluminova. Whether housed in the steel or ceramic case, the result feels sleek and contemporary.

The Pilot Big Date Flyback allows Zenith’s trademark chronograph to take flight. Sharing a similar aesthetic to the Zenith Pilot Automatic, the 42.5mm watch is also available with a case in both steel or black microblasted ceramic. Compared to the monochromatic tones of the ceramic, the steel version takes a slightly jauntier approach with its red second hand and rainbow-hued surround on the 30-second counter.

ZENITH Defy

The Defy is a fiercely modern reimagining of Zenith’s original Defy series and is clearly identifiable due to its sharp case geometry and multi-faceted form.  The Defy Skyline is Zenith’s top integrated-bracelet offering whose slick looks are enlivened by the starry pattern on the dial that riffs off the brand’s distinctive astral logo.

The Defy Extreme line packs an even more high-tech punch. Housed in titanium cases, these are boldly futuristic tool watches with skeletonised dials to offer a peek at the El Primero movements within.

Equally arresting, is the Zenith Defy 21 chronograph that come in two bold hues. The Ultraviolet version colours the automatic chronograph in vivid tones of purple that are visible through the skeletonised dial, while the Ultrablue repeats the trick in blue.

ZENITH Chronomaster Revival

For the many watch lovers enamoured by Zenith’s past classics, the Revival series is a chance to enjoy retro looks combined with modern technical chops.

Released to celebrate the 50^th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, the Zenith Chronomaster El Primero A384 Revival, is a faithful rendition of the original with its 37mm cushion-shaped case and a black and white panda dial.

Another sepia-toned option is the Chronomaster El Primero A385 Revival. Zenith was one of the first brands to bring out smoked gradient dials, and the A385 Revival offers a stunning execution of this trick with the different tones of brown melding into a cappuccino wonderland. Perched on its ladder bracelet, it’s a true one-off.  

 

Explore Zenith today at Kennedy Chadstone or online.