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Jaeger-LeCoultre adds depth to the dials of the Polaris collection
Published on 18 December 2020
A classic diver from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Catalogue gets a fresh new face.
Jaeger-LeCoultre, with its long 187-year-old history, is a Maison rich in iconic designs. One such is the Polaris, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s pioneering dive watch that made a big splash when it was first released back in 1965. Undeniable style and the uncommon combination of a professional-grade dive watch with a mechanical alarm made the Polaris an intriguing timepiece.
Incorporating a mechanical alarm into a dive watch makes sense. On Jaeger-LeCoultre’s famous Memovox, the alarm is powered by a separate mainspring and provides a pleasing, whirring alarm that vibrates and resonates through the case. On a dive watch like the Polaris, the complication has a vital purpose, serving (alongside the rotating bezel), to remind the wearer that it’s time to return to the surface. On the ‘regular’ Memovox the alarm serves as a useful reminder; on the Polaris, the combination of diver and alarm is a watch made in underwater heaven.
After a long hiatus, the Polaris returned to Jaeger-LeCoultre. In 2018 it was back, and with a fresh new look. Jaeger-LeCoultre released the Polaris as a complete collection, with a full suite of watches, from an automatic offering through to a world-timer. The recently released Polaris Mariner offers two fresh takes; the Polaris Mariner Date and the Polaris Mariner Memovox.
A striking dial
These two models – which at first glance look quite similar – each offer something different and are united by a striking look. The finely worked 42mm steel cases both come with a matching steel bracelet with polished outer links and brushed centre links. These elements are as expertly finished as you would expect, but the dials take it to the next level. They’re blue, a rich textured shade that reminds the wearer of the darkness of the ocean depths. This is achieved through the complex and varied textures of the dial elements, as well as the fact that from the central section to the hour ring and the outer bezel the colour shifts from dark blue to black seamlessly, creating a thoroughly modern look.
That complex blue is made more appealing thanks to bright, white and orange highlights at play on the watch. The numerals and hour markers are white, filled with white Super-LumiNova® for perfect legibility day or night. Small but significant flashes of orange are also visible on the internal rotating bezel and the alarm indicator on the Memovox. In addition to adding boldness to the dial, this colour also serves a practical purpose. The winding crown on the Memovox model and the upper bezel crown on the Mariner Date has a bright orange collar, alerting the wearer to the fact that the crown is not correctly screwed in.
Ready for adventure
The screw-down crown is a crucial element in ensuring these Polaris’ 300m of water resistance, along with the well-protected box-sapphire crystal that allows for unimpeded visibility of the dial, and the clear caseback that shows off the fine finishing of the in-house automatic movements. On the Polaris Mariner Date, it’s the calibre 899AB, with 70 hours of power reserve, and in the more complicated Memovox, you get the calibre 956AA beating away, which has a maximum of 45 hours running time under the hood. Regardless of the version you prefer, you get the benefit of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s impressive eight-year warranty when you register for the brand’s Care Program.
These two new additions to the Polaris collection, with their vibrant dials, and refined calibres demonstrate that the iconic design is as relevant today as it was when it was first released.
Article was written by Felix Scholz